Allotment update – 24/10/2018

My alloment is divided down the middle by a windbreak. Each half is further divided into two, creating four sections for my four year crop rotation. It happens that this year one side of the windbreak is almost empty, summer crops having been removed and nothing put in to replace them, while the other side is almost full.

On the empty side I have sown one bed with Italian Rye as a green manure, planted overwintering onions and mulched the rest. The green manure was sown late august and needed a couple of waterings to get it going. The plan is to cut it down in spring, cover it with Mypex to kill the grass, then plant into the undisturbed ground. I need to leave it as late as possible for maximum benefit but cover it early enough for the grass to be completely killed before I need the ground.


Italian ryegrass two months from sowing. The enviromesh is over onions. The only other things here are carrots, parsnips and the remains of courgettes.

I want to perfect the use of green manures in a no dig scenario for a number of reasons: 1) I struggle to get enough organic matter to cover my whole plot with compost each year. 2)I think plant roots and especially grass roots, directly improve soil structure. 3)I think dense plant growth is the best possible protection for the soil surface in winter and the best reservoir for plant nutrients at risk of leaching, acting as a slow release nutrient source when it breaks down.
I sowed the same green manure crop a month or so later on a different piece of ground and it looks like it may have been too late, in that it is growing very slowly and seems unlikely to make a dense stand.

The mulch on the rest of the area has been a mix of fresh and composted material. When the two blocks of corn had finished I cut them down and shredded them, then spread it straight back where it had come from. Thus whatever nutrients had been taken from the ground got returned to the same place. Anything else available at the time, kitchen and garden waste, was mixed in and spread too. I then sprinkled a thin layer of compost over the top, mainly to keep it from drying out and blowing about.

I figure that if there is bare ground available, that is the best place to put the stuff that would normally go on the compost heap. There’s no loss of nutrients and all of the early stage breakdown involving worms and other invertebrates takes place where their activity will do the most good. Based on previous experience little will remain by spring, having either been incorporated into the soil by worms or broken down on the surface.


Enviromesh over autumn planted onion sets and two areas mulched with fresh, shredded sweet corn, dahlias and kitchen waste.

The onions are the variety ‘Electric’, which another plotholder had done well with. It’s a red, autumn planted variety. I started them from sets in cells, as I do with spring sown onions. The sets were planted in cells on 19 Sept, then planted on the plot 15 Oct. I put fine mesh over them to trap a little warmth and divert a little rain. They are growing strongly so far.

At the other end of the plot I have a range of crops to supply us in winter. Brassicas dominate, cabbage, kale, kalettes and sprouting broccoli. Then there are leaks, perpetual spinach and celeriac. I need to grow more beetroot to stay in the ground for winter.


L to R: Perpetual spinach, leeks, ‘Midnight Sun’ kale, ‘Rudolph’ purple sprouting broccoli.

I have a row of sorrel, grown as a perennial vegetable and used in salads, that I find is under constant assault by something that eats numerous small holes in its leaves. The bets approach seems to be to cut it to the ground and use the regrowth before it is attacked. By cutting down about a third of the row at a time I have been able to keep a supply of uneaten leaves going. I think a similar technique might work on perpetual spinach, maintaining a supply of good leaves for us to eat and grotty leaves for the compost heap.


Sorrel, regrown after cutting and caper spurge, which I am growing because it is reputed to deter moles, which I am plagued by, presumably because I have lots of worms.


And finally, because I’m greedy and have two plots (there are more plots available, I’m not keeping anyone out), on my other plot I have things flowering.


Camellia sasanqua ‘Tanya’ and battered but not beaten, my patch of seedling dahlias, both covered with bees and wasps in the sun this morning.


Allotment update – 12/9/2018

I meant this to be a monthly snapshot, but there has been slippage, my last allotment post being at the end of July. That was just after we’d had the first rain for ages but before anything was showing any benefit from it.


My runner beans had cropped well through the hot spell, sustained by copious watering. The problem was that in the hot weather we were eating mostly salads and had no use for runners. We’re not keen on frozen runner beans and have limited freezer space so we ate some, gave some away and put a lot onto the compost heap. I know “food waste” is as toxic an expression these days as “Donald Trump”, but I don’t see this as food waste. If it had been cold we’d have eaten lots of beans and I’d have been dumping lettuce instead. If it had been cold I’d likely have had a lot fewer beans to start with.

If a crop exceeds expectations and you get more than you need, you have food waste. If it falls short of expectations you’re off to the shops to make up the shortfall. If I have lots of cabbages I pull off all the nibbled leaves and just eat the heart; if I have less I do a bit of trimming and eat stuff you wouldn’t even buy in the shops. Rant over.

I didn’t keep on top of picking the beans and when the weather cooled the plants had stopped flowering and were laden with tough pods. I left them to ripen, the dried beans will go in soups and stews over the winter.


At the far end of the row are six plants of a bean given me by another plot holder. They are French, I was told, as if that explained everything. Connoisseur, gourmet; these are the French words that informed my expectations. They set not a single bean in the June and July heat, in spite of having plenty of flower and getting exactly the same amount of water as the rest. Since the weather has cooled, they have been producing modest numbers of short beans, enough for the occasional meal. They’re nothing special.

I read somewhere that at high temperatures runner bean pollen fails to germinate on the stigma. The unfertilised flowers don’t develop pods. ‘Firestorm’, the variety making up the rest of the row, is self fertile. I’d have taken that to mean that it could be fertilised by its own pollen but maybe it means that the beans develop without successful pollination taking place.


I grew two varieties of Sweet Corn this year, sowing ‘Earliking’ on 11 April and ‘Goldcrest’ on 6 May. ‘Goldcrest’ somewhat caught up with ‘Earliking’ and was ready only two weeks later; I could have done with a bigger gap. ‘Earliking’ had smaller cobs but bigger kernels, was much shorter and had fewer cobs per stem. That’s ‘Goldcrest’ in the picture, ‘Earliking’ was pulled out of the bed in front, shredded and spread back, then covered with a layer of compost. The ‘Goldcrest’ cob below is over 7″, without the stem.

Brassicas have done what was asked of them. Cabbage ‘Delight Ball’ took us through summer though I will sow some earlier next year. Following on was Red Cabbage ‘Kalibos’, which I did two sowings of. The second sowing of that, plus a row of ‘Huzaro’, will hopefully get us through the winter. I also have Flower Sprouts, Kale ‘Midnight Sun’ and Purple Sprouting Broccoli for winter into spring. The kale and PSB, in the lower picture, were planted where the peas had been, somewhat messing up my crop rotation.


Cabbage ‘Huzaro’, Cabbage ‘Kalibos’ and Flower Sprouts, with Dahlia for contrast.


Leeks, Kale ‘Midnight Sun’, Lettuce ‘Oakleaf Navara’ & PSB.

I used Italian Ryegrass as a green manure in the first year on my plot, digging it in before planting in the spring. It made prodigious growth, stood very well over winter, protecting the soil from winter rain and holding onto nutrients that would have leached away. The soil tilth when it was turned in was excellent and the nutrients were quickly released to the growing crop. Then I decided to go no-dig. Field beans and grazing rye were a complete failure as green manure in my second year so I gave up and simply mulched the ground in autumn with compost for the next couple of seasons.


Now I’m experimenting with green manure again. I’m hoping the Italian ryegrass will make lots of growth this autumn, perhaps even to the point that I take a cut off it with shears. Then I plan to chop it down and cover it with Mypex early enough to give me a good kill by early May. I’m not quite sure how long that will need so I plan to cover it early February, allowing eight weeks before I want the ground. I can check and leave it longer if I have to. The grassy strip in the picture had onions in the nearer half, potatoes in the further half. The strips of carpet keep the paths weed free, I just need a bit more.

At the top left in this picture are courgettes which, like the runners, cropped like mad when it was hot and we didn’t want them, then gave up. They’re now starting to crop again, so hopefully we shall have courgettes for a few more weeks. The onions still left are spring onions that have bulbed. Some we have eaten but they are much inferior to the “proper” onions, of which we have loads. I grew ‘Rumba’ from sets and ‘Armstrong’ from seed, both very successfully this year. ‘Rumba’ were lifted a month ago, ‘Armstrong’ a few days ago.


Onion ‘Armstrong’ with garden fork for scale.

The only other thing worth a mention is Celeriac, which I love and Sue hates. I should have given it more space but it’s done well enough. I’ve had one, very nice. Oh hang on, did I mention the Dahlias on the other plot?

I might have said this before but they’re seedlings. The outstanding red is called number 15.

Allotment update 18/6/2018

It’s a day under four weeks since my last allotment blog and it was the comparison in the pictures above that prompted me to do an update. The growth rate in the last few weeks has been something to behold. I am now harvesting quite a range of crops and a few more are very nearly there.

Strawberries have been good, almost untouched by slugs, meaning I’ve been able to let them ripen properly. Jam has been made. Lettuce, carrots, sorrel, spinach, spinach beet, rhubarb, beetroot, spring onions and courgettes have made it to the table. Early potatoes and peas will start this week. The only real disaster is that my garlic has rust.

For some strange reason the plots to either side of mine have had their peas ravaged by pigeons, while mine are completely untouched. I was a little earlier than they were but that seems to me the only difference. Not that I’m complaining.

I have mentioned before that I have real problems getting plants going from seed sown directly on the plot, almost everything being brought on in cell trays and planted out when an inch or two tall. Leeks, needing to be planted deeper, I did differently. I sowed them in a one litre pot then pricked them out about an inch apart in a ten litre pot when they were about 2 inches tall. They were then grown on until they were big enough to plant out. They are in the top right picture, beside the spinach beet at the far left.


The top half of the plot here still has brassicas covered with mesh to stop root fly. The cover will need to come off those on the right very soon. From left to right I have celeriac, first time I’ve grown it, seems to be doing OK. Above that is sorrel, a perennial I grew from seed last year. It is great in mixed leaf salads. Annual spinach serves the same purpose, along with lettuce. The very dark lettuce is Oakleaf Navara, a great success, the lighter one is Lollo Rosso. Green Salad Bowl was in the earlier picture. Between the lettuces is beetroot, a golden form called Boldor. This cooks far quicker than Boltardy and is sweet and tender. I’ll grow it again.


To the right of my windbreak are onions. Furthest on are Rumba, grown from sets started in cells in mid February and planted out in April. They’re planted quite close, we find medium sized onions more practical. I did two sowings of onion Armstrong, the later ones in early March, planted out in May, have caught up with the experimental earlier ones. They look fine but are way behind Rumba. Red onion Red Baron are at the same stage as Armstrong though they have suffered more slug damage. You can see my rusty garlic, Provence, with four good sized elephant garlics in the foreground.


Lettuce ‘Oakleaf Navara’ and Onion ‘Rumba’


In the top half of that section are courgettes, potatoes, sweet corn and runner beans. I sowed all the courgettes in the packet, they all germinated and they were all planted out. I figured to get up to speed quickly then remove plants when the glut kicks in. I’ve only grown first early Charlotte spuds this year. In the four years I’ve had the plot I’ve had one decent crop of maincrops, every other year blight has flattened them. I’ll start harvesting any day now.

I’ve grown two varieties of sweet corn, sowing them about four weeks apart. I’m hoping for a longer picking season. They’re closer than it said on the packet but I figured on a wide open south facing slope I’d get away with it. I run the beans along the top of this section, same place every year, because they are not throwing shade over any part of the plot. I haven’t seen much difference between north and south side of the bean row. The beans are Firestorm, with six odd ones given me by another plot holder who got them in France. A week after he gave them to me, he apologised because his own sowing of them had failed completely so he’d realised they were duff seeds. I sowed 20 and 19 germinated. He wasn’t very happy when I told him, he’d gone out and bought plants. I suspect he’d used poor compost, or had them at too low a temperature, but you never really know.


Runner beans ‘Firestorm’, Courgette ‘Ambassador’, Carrots ‘Romance’ and ‘Autumn King’

Carrots I have continued to successionally sow in one litre deep pots, planting out as a clump as soon as the compost will hold together. Germination is faultless, fairly slow but always around 100%. Slugs are the enemy, I have had pots of seedlings razed overnight by a single slug in the glasshouse and one clump disappeared overnight just after planting out. The tricky bit is sowing them thick enough to have the roots hold the rootball together for planting but thin enough that they grow to a decent size. I aim for about twenty in the pot, but it’s usually more.

On my other plot (I’m greedy, I have two) I am growing Dahlias, Sweet Peas and Butternut Squash. (There are strawberries there too but I can hardly claim to be growing them). The ground is poor and very weedy. Several months of being covered with Mypex failed to kill nettles and buttercup. I sprayed part of it. The Sweet Peas and Squash are struggling but the Dahlias are doing rather well. I have three rows, all grown from seed collected from my own ‘Orange Cushion’ (rows 1 & 2) and ‘Veritable’. The middle row are from a 2016 sowing, the others from 11th March this year. I’m pretty chuffed to have flower buds forming even on some of those. I’m expecting most if not all to flower this year. I’ll keep you posted.


Dahlias among the weeds. I started weeding after I took the picture, honest.


Buds on plants sown 11/3/2018


Sweet Peas and Butternut Squash. I have high hopes.

Allotment update – 22/5/2018

The weather has been settled for a week or two, so I’m more or less up to date on where I want to be on my plot. Peas, potatoes and parsnips are the only things I’ve sown directly on the plot, everything else has been raised under glass and planted out. Peas and potatoes are up and away, parsnips were late to go in, on 8th May, and are not showing yet.

I’ve been watering newly planted stuff every two or three days until well established, then largely backing off.


It’s all pretty functional. I don’t have raised beds, just beds about a metre wide with half metre paths between them. I have enough carpet strips to cover about half the paths. They stay put until the weeds are dead then get moved to another section. For the life of me I cannot see what advantage raised beds would give me. It would just be more work, more expense and more places for slugs to hide. Better to leave the trees standing. Lettuce, peas, broad beans and Rhubarb are in the foreground.

The two enviromesh tunnels are covering cabbages. Last year I was wiped out by cabbage rootfly, in spite of using paper collars. This year so far I have had no such problems, though several small plants were eaten off within days of planting, probably by slugs. The carpet strips are holding down the mesh, which is laid over 4mm wire hoops.


I have pulled back the mesh here to replace the eaten cabbages, fortunately I had a few spares. The very dark lettuce is Oakleaf Navarro, which I shall certainly grow again. When it is gone, I will fit in another row of brassicas. I should have removed the primrose, but until recently it was very pretty.


The plot is divided into three sections, the fruit cage to the right of this picture, plus the two vegetable plots separated by a windbreak. I have my runners along the top of this section; that way they don’t shade anything else.
The left hand bed is planted with seed raised onions, next are onions from sets, variety Rumba, then garlic and finally carrots. I removed a block of garlic Solent Wight yesterday from where the fork is because it was riddled with rust. The four rows are Provence, which held out for a while but then went down with it too. The four large plants at the bottom are Elephant Garlic and at the moment they are clean.

The carrots were raised in one litre deep pots and planted out with minimal disturbance as soon as they had enough root to hold together. I will dig them as clumps. The only problem last year was that they pushed up above the soil a bit; this year I have planted them a little deeper.

In the top half of the bed are courgettes and sweet corn Earlyking, both planted in the last few days. The Charlotte potatoes were planted 9th April and need earthing up. As a no digger I tried just covering them with a deep layer of compost last year. It wasn’t very successful, encouraging slugs and not covering the potatoes effectively.

It’s tempting providence to say so, but the season is going well, having got off to a shaky start.


Allotment update – 11/4/2018

I read allotment blogs out of curiosity  about what other people are up to rather than to learn how to do things. Now and then an idea will come up that I will try out but on the whole I have found ways that work for me and am reluctant to depart from them.

This then, is what I am up to at this stage of the season. Just in case you’re curious too.

April is perhaps the fastest moving time of year in the vegetable garden and with the cold weather of a few weeks ago fading into memory, there is a lot happening.
The soil on my plot has been wet and cold and the only thing I have “sown” direct so far (9th Apr)  is my early potatoes, Charlotte again this year.

Most of my vegetables I start off under cover, usually sowing seed in 9cm pots then pricking off into cell trays. Lettuce ‘Oakleaf Navarro’ followed this route and went out on the 9th too, along with Broad Beans, sown direct into 9cm pots and Onion ‘Rumba’ sets, planted into cell trays on 17th Feb.


Assorted seedlings growing on in cell trays.

Growing on in cell trays now I have a fair list of things, some nearly ready to go out, others just pricked off, namely:
Lettuce ‘Lollo Rosso’, ‘’Sald Bowl’, ‘Oakleaf Navarro’
Cabbage ‘Delight Ball’, ‘Huzarro’, ‘Kalibos’
Beetroot ‘Boltardy’ and ‘Boldor’
Spinach and Spinach Beet
Welsh onion, Onion ‘Armstrong’, Spring Onion ‘White Lisbon’
Celeriac ‘Asterix’

I have carrots in 1 litre deep pots and Pea ‘Twinkle’ in 9cm pots, some of which have emerged today. The rest of my peas will be direct sown, probably in the next few days.
I checked through my seeds today to see what else needed sowing and there wasn’t very much. Parsnips need to go in very soon; Runner Beans, Kale, Broccoli and Squash in a few weeks time. Courgettes and one variety of Sweet Corn I have sown today. Successional sowings will be made of Carrots, Lettuce, Spring Onions, Beetroot and so on, but there is a strong sense that the growing season is well under way.


The list below is what I have sown so far.

Beetroot Boldor F1 04/03/2018 11/04/2018
Beetroot Boltardy 31/03/2018
Broad Bean Masterpiece Green 03/02/2018
Brussels Sprout Brendan F1 30/03/2018
Cabbage Delight Ball F1 04/03/2018
Cabbage Huzaro F1 04/03/2018
Cabbage Kalibos 30/03/2018
Carrot Early Nantes 17/02/2018 19/03/2018
Carrot Romance F1 19/03/2018
Celeriac Asterix F1 17/02/2018
Chilli Apache 03/03/2018
Chilli Ring of Fire 03/03/2018
Chilli Tabasco 03/03/2018
Courgette Ambassador F1 11/04/2018
Cucumber Carmen F1 31/03/2018
Flower Sprout 30/03/2018
Garlic Provence 02/10/2017
Garlic Solent Wight 02/10/2017
Leaf Beet Perpetual Spinach 04/03/2018
Leek Blue Solaise 30/03/2018
Lettuce Lollo Rosso 19/03/2018
Lettuce Oakleaf Navara 03/02/2018 30/03/2018
Lettuce Red Salad Bowl 19/03/2018
Lettuce Salad Bowl 19/03/2018
Onion Armstrong F1 03/02/2018 04/03/2018
Onion Red Baron 04/03/2018
Onion Rumba sets 17/02/2018
Onion White Lisbon 03/02/2018 30/03/2018
Parsley Plain 30/03/2018
Pea Twinkle 01/04/2018
Potato Charlotte 09/04/2018
Spinach Matador 30/03/2018
Sweet Corn Earliking F1 11/04/2018
Tomato Sungold 19/03/2018
Welsh Onion 11/03/2018

Allotment update – 28/3/2018

I’m into my fifth year of recording seed sowing dates for both veg and flowers. It gets a bit more patchy at the pricking off stage and worse still for planting out. I thought it would tell me how far behind I am this year, but it actually tells me very little.

It feels like a late season, I suspect they all do.

I have broad beans, sown in 9cm pots in early Feb, ready to go out. I want to get early potatoes in. I will soon want to get onions, started from sets in cells, out, with seed raised plants not so very far behind. I have lettuce, beetroot and spinach beet in cells, perhaps a fortnight from planting size.


Broad Bean ‘Masterpiece Green’, sown into 9cm pots, 2 seeds per pot, 3/2/2018. Being moved out of greenhouse daily to harden off.


Onion ‘Rumba’, planted in cells to get started, will soon need to go out.

Most of my seed I get from Kings. Why? well for no better reason than that I piggy backed someone else’s discounted allotment society order five years ago, got acceptable results and if it ain’t broke, I don’t fix it. I feel unadventurous, especially when I read other people’s blogs and they’re getting all sorts of stuff from all over the place.

I have tried a bit. I did a small order to Real Seeds last year and a small order to Sow Seeds this year. It’s unfair to just pick at the margins of their ranges while getting the bulk from a big firm. I got mixed results, one out of three chilli varieties from Sow Seeds has not come up at all, against 100% on the other two. The Liria onions from Real Seeds did very well but didn’t keep nearly as well as Rumba from Kings. The sorrel is a perennial so I still have it, not that I use it much. Giant Goosefoot was not popular and the runners were nothing special.


Chillies on the window ledge, pricked off a week ago. Two varieties germinated 100%, the third not at all; same conditions.

What I want is to get a decent return for the money and effort I invest in the plot. I don’t think my growing conditions are optimal so reliability is important and a high proportion of failures would eventually make me give up. All my experimentation goes into my growing methods rather than different crops. I’d rather succeed with something common than fail with something exotic.




Last year I bought a bag of Melcourt’s sowing and cutting compost. This year I have used their regular potting compost. This is the same peat free compost as is used by an increasing number of commercial nursery stock producers. I have seen no difference between the seed and potting composts, in appearance or in results.

I don’t sow much directly into the ground as I find most things fail, usually being eaten by slugs when very small. Planting out from cells is also easier when the ground still has the remains of a winter mulch on it, which most of my no dig plot does. The ground also gets another month to dry out and warm up before I try to grow anything in it.


Remains of my autumn mulch are still protecting the soil surface of the plot. Weeds are only a problem if allowed to seed, which won’t happen. My Rhubarb is well away.


Lettuce ‘Oakleaf Navara’, looking good but will soon need to go out.


Carrots ‘Early Nantes’ will go out as soon as there is enough root to hold the compost together. They will then get planted just as they are. I may thin them slightly, to about 15 per pot.


Cabbages were pricked off into cells from 9cm pots; beetroot and spinach beet sown in cells and will get planted as small bunches. Onions will get pricked off into cells very soon, one per cell, as will Celeriac and more lettuce.

Allotment update 11/2/2018

I made a quick visit to my allotment earlier. The wind was slicing across the very open site and, seeing very little that needed doing urgently, I didn’t stay long.


Spinach, leeks, rhubarb and weeds, lots of weeds.

My leeks were a dismal failure; almost all of them produced flower stems. Sown too early seems to be the verdict. Spinach beet is OK, though it is very battered. There are parsnips in the ground, though they are pathetically small. Mesh over the top stopped root fly but cramped leaf development.

All the bare ground was mulched in autumn with compost, mostly from my compost heap, some fresh shredded material. It has done its job of protecting the soil surface over the winter but because my composting isn’t on a scale that generates much heat, there is a lot of weed to pull out.


In the first winter that I had the plot I sowed Italian ryegrass as a green manure. It was very effective but needed digging in. Since I adopted a no dig regime it has not seemed viable. I am going to try it again in autumn 2018, sowing it on the beds that will not be needed until relatively late in the spring. It should mean I can spread my compost a little thicker on a reduced area. The rye I will cover with mypex a couple of months before I need the ground. Hopefully that will be long enough to give me a good kill.


More weeds, plus parsley, kale and garlic.

As well as not having as much compost as I would like, the stuff I do have doesn’t have the nutrients in it that my crops need either. This is a fairly high rainfall area and the ground is free draining, the more so because I am maintaining good soil structure. I suspect I am losing nutrients to leaching. I also shred a lot of woody material and put it into the compost. It resists decomposition and is effective all winter at protecting the soil surface, but at best it is poor in nutrients, if it isn’t actually drawing nutrients out for its own breakdown. I will feed more this season than I have in the past.


The one thing I did do when I was up there today was to open 2018’s account with my mole population. There are too many for my liking. I’m not bothered by their excavations so much as their impact on my worm population. I’m convinced it’s because I have far more worms than my neighbours that they seem to be mostly focussed on my plot. I set two traps though my success with them in the past has been dire. I have also scattered seed of caper spurge around the margins; supposedly it deters them. I sowed a couple of cell trays with spurge too.  I’ll let you know how it goes.


Moles. Their hills are all along the edges of the plot but their tunnels are everywhere.